Headcheese

Directions

1. 1
   Examine the ears for stray hairs and use a sharp knife to scrape and remove any you find.
2. 2
   If there are lots of hairs, remove just the long ones.
3. 3
   Hairs on the rim can be get cut off later.
4. 4
   A few short ones are okay.
5. 5
   To rid the ears and tongue of impurities, put them in a large saucepan with 1 teaspoon salt and water to cover.
6. 6
   Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 5 minutes.
7. 7
   Drain in a colander and rinse well with cold water.
8. 8
   Set the ears aside.
9. 9
   Use a vegetable peeler or sharp knife to remove the white top layer of the tongue from the tip to the fuzzy back; theres no need to remove the bottom layer.
10. 10
    Return the tongue and ears to the saucepan.
11. 11
    Add the pork shank, onion, 2 teaspoons salt, and water to cover by 1 1/2 inches.
12. 12
    Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 45 minutes.
13. 13
    Remove from the heat and set aside for 45 minutes, or until cool enough to handle.
14. 14
    Meanwhile, use the egg and oil to prepare a thick egg sheet (page 320) in an 8-inch nonstick skillet.
15. 15
    Quarter the egg sheet and then cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips.
16. 16
    Set aside with the wood ear mushrooms.
17. 17
    For the mold, select an empty can (such as a 20-ounce fruit can) that has a capacity of 2 1/2 cups and is about 3 1/2 inches in diameter and 4 1/2 inches tall.
18. 18
    To line the bottom of the can, stand the can on the 4-inch square of banana leaf and press to create an impression of the bottom.
19. 19
    Use scissors to cut out the circle, making it slightly smaller than the impression.
20. 20
    Drop it into the can and use a spatula or spoon to make sure it lays flat.
21. 21
    Cut a 9-by-12-inch piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil.
22. 22
    To stiffen the foil, so that it is easier to slide it into the can, fold one of the long edges over by 1 inch.
23. 23
    Shape the foil by wrapping it around the outside of the can, letting the edges overlap.
24. 24
    Hold the foil as a loose tube and slide it into the can, with the folded edge touching the bottom.
25. 25
    Again, make sure it is snugly in place.
26. 26
    Use the remaining larger piece of banana leaf to line the wall of the can by coiling it into a short tube and sliding it into the can.
27. 27
    Make sure it is snug.
28. 28
    Set the mold near the stove.
29. 29
    Remove the ears, tongue, and pork shank from the pan.
30. 30
    Discard the broth.
31. 31
    Halve each ear lengthwise and cut the pieces into scant 1/2-inch-wide strips.
32. 32
    Halve the tongue lengthwise and scrape out any dark, soft bits lingering in the center.
33. 33
    Cut each half crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick pieces.
34. 34
    Slice the pork shank into domino-sized pieces about 1/4 inch thick.
35. 35
    Put all the meats into a 10-inch nonstick skillet and place over medium heat.
36. 36
    When the sizzling begins, gently stir the meats, lowering the heat slightly when they brown.
37. 37
    As the ears release their gelatin, the white cartilage becomes more visible.
38. 38
    Keep stirring to coax more gelatin out.
39. 39
    After 10 minutes, the mixture should hiss, pop, and be sticky.
40. 40
    Touch a piece of meat and it will feel tacky.
41. 41
    Add the egg and mushroom pieces and continue cooking for about 5 minutes, or until they are tacky, too.
42. 42
    (Some of the skin on the ear pieces will have receded enough for you to see a good 1/8 inch of cartilage.)
43. 43
    Sprinkle in the fish sauce and pepper and keep stirring and cooking for another 2 to 3 minutes, or until the ingredients are tacky again.
44. 44
    Remove from the heat.
45. 45
    The total cooking time will be less than 20 minutes.
46. 46
    Taste and add 1 or 2 big pinches of salt for extra depth; dont dilute the gelatin with more fish sauce.
47. 47
    Use a large spoon to transfer the mixture to the prepared can.
48. 48
    As you add each spoonful, push down on it firmly to compact the mixture.
49. 49
    It is okay for some of it to rise above the rim of the can.
50. 50
    The foil tube will hold it in place and it will all fit.
51. 51
    Fold the foil to close the top and press firmly to compact the contents further.
52. 52
    Weight it down first with a smaller can and then with a larger can on top.
53. 53
    You want weights totaling 2 1/2 to 3 pounds.
54. 54
    When the contents are completely cool, remove the weights and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
55. 55
    To unmold, use a can opener to remove the bottom of the can.
56. 56
    Put the can holding the headcheese atop a smaller can and firmly push the headcheese out.
57. 57
    Remove the foil but keep the banana leaf to maintain its aroma for serving time.
58. 58
    Store the headcheese in an airtight container or zip-top plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for 1 month.
59. 59
    All of the charcuterie in this chapter, with the exception of Rich and Crisp Sausage (page 165), which is served hot or warm, should be cut cold, straight from the refrigerator.
60. 60
    The cold meats are firm and easy to handle, so you will get nice, thin slices.
61. 61
    But before digging in, let the meats sit at room temperature to take the chill off.
62. 62
    They will soften a little and be more flavorful.