Savory Cheese Souffle

Directions

1. 1
   Prepare the souffle dish.
2. 2
   (See below.)
3. 3
   Slide rack onto lower-third level, and preheat oven to 400F.
4. 4
   The Sauce Base.
5. 5
   Cook the 2 1/2 tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons flour together in a 3-quart saucepan until they foam and froth for 2 minutes.
6. 6
   Remove from heat and beat in the hot milk, then simmer and stir slowly for a minute or two to thicken.
7. 7
   Remove from heat and whisk seasonings into sauce, then, one by one, the egg yolks.
8. 8
   Whip the egg whites to stiff, shining peaks (see page 100).
9. 9
   Whisk a quarter of them into the sauce to lighten it, then delicately fold in the rest of the whites, alternating with sprinklings of the grated Swiss cheese.
10. 10
    Turn the souffle mixture into the dish and set in the oven.
11. 11
    Reduce heat to 375F and bake 25 to 30 minutes, until souffle has puffed several inches into the collar, or an inch or two above the rim, and has browned nicely on top.
12. 12
    When is it really done?
13. 13
    See below.
14. 14
    Remove the collar and serve at once.
15. 15
    To Serve a Souffle.
16. 16
    So as to deflate it as little as possible, hold a serving spoon and fork upright and back to back.
17. 17
    Plunge them into the center of the souffle and tear it apart.
18. 18
    VEGETABLE SOUFFLES.
19. 19
    After making the sauce base, fold in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of well-seasoned cooked chopped spinach, asparagus, broccoli, or mushrooms.
20. 20
    Complete the souffle as directed, but fold in only 1/3 cup of the grated Swiss cheese.
21. 21
    SHELLFISH SOUFFLES.
22. 22
    Make a cup or so of creamed lobster, crab or shrimp (see page 66) and spread in the bottom of the buttered souffle dish.
23. 23
    Cover with the souffle mixture but fold in only 1/3 cup of the grated Swiss cheese.
24. 24
    You might serve the fresh tomato fondue (see page 30) along with it.
25. 25
    SALMON AND OTHER FISH SOUFFLES.
26. 26
    The souffle is a dressy solution for leftover fish.
27. 27
    Stir a cup or so of cooked flaked fish into the sauce base, and give extra flavor by adding several tablespoons of minced shallots sauteed in butter and a tablespoon or two of minced fresh dill.
28. 28
    Again, cut down the grated Swiss cheese to 1/3 cup.
29. 29
    Hollandaise sauce (page 13) would go well here.
30. 30
    SOUFFLES ON A PLATTER.
31. 31
    Rather than in a deep dish, you may bake a souffle on a platter or in a gratin dish.
32. 32
    For 4 people, butter a 12-to-14-inch oval ovenproof platter and arrange on it four 1/2-cup mounds of a deliciously flavored something, like the creamed shellfish on page 66.
33. 33
    Heap a quarter of the finished souffle mixture over each, top with grated Swiss cheese, and bake 15 minutes or so in a preheated 425F oven, until puffed and brown.
34. 34
    SOUFFLE ROULADETHE ROLLED SOUFFLE.
35. 35
    For an 11-by-17-inch jelly-roll pan, serving 6 to 8 people.
36. 36
    Slide rack onto upper-third level of oven, and preheat to 425F.
37. 37
    Butter the pan and line with parchment or wax paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang at each end.
38. 38
    Butter the paper and flour it, knocking out excess.
39. 39
    Follow the master recipe, but increase proportions to the following: 5 tablespoons butter, 6 tablespoons flour, 1 1/2 cups milk, 6 yolks, 7 whites, and 1 cup of grated Swiss cheese.
40. 40
    Spread the souffle mixture in the pan and bake for 12 minutes or so, until just well setdont overcook, or it will crack when rolled.
41. 41
    Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top and invert the souffle onto another paper-covered baking sheet.
42. 42
    Carefully peel off the paper lining.
43. 43
    Spread over the souffle 1 1/4 cups or so of any warm, well-seasoned filling, such as piperade (page 32), sauteed mushrooms and diced ham, the creamed shellfish on page 66, or other.
44. 44
    Roll up the souffle and top decoratively, if you wish, with more filling, and/or a sauce such as the tomato fondue on page 30, or hollandaise, page 13.
45. 45
    Choose a straight-sided baking dish or a charlotte mold.
46. 46
    Smear a light coating of soft butter over the insides of the dish, covering bottom and sides.
47. 47
    Depending on the souffle, roll finely grated Parmesan cheese, or bread crumbs, or granulated sugar in the dish to cover inner surface completely, and knock out excess.
48. 48
    The Collar.
49. 49
    If you are using a collar, cut a length of parchment paper or aluminum foil long enough to wrap around the dish with a 2-inch overlap, fold in half lengthwise, and butter one side.
50. 50
    Wrap the collar around the dish, buttered side in; it should rise 3 inches above the rim.
51. 51
    Secure in place with 2 straight pins, inserted heads up for quick removal.
52. 52
    If it has a collar, rapidly release it just a bit to checkif the puff sags, refasten the collar and bake a few minutes more.
53. 53
    When a skewer is plunged down into the side of the puff and comes out with a few particles clinging, the souffle will be deliciously creamy inside but will not hold up long.
54. 54
    If the skewer comes out clean, it will hold up a little longer.