Eclairs

Directions

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   To make the pastry cream, sift together the sugar, flour, and cornstarch into a good-size bowl.
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   In a separate bowl, whisk together a generous 6 tablespoons (100 ml) of the milk, the egg yolks, and the egg, and then incorporate it with the dry ingredients, mixing well.
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   Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and, using the tip of a sharp knife, scrape the seeds into a saucepan with the rest of the milk (1 2/3 cups/400 ml).
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   Bring just to a boil, then remove from the heat and slowly add the hot milk to the egg mixture while stirring constantly.
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   When all the milk has been added, pour the mixture through a finemesh sieve into a thick-bottomed saucepan.
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   Place the pan over medium heat and stir, watching it carefully.
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   As soon as the mixture thickens and you see 3 bubbles boil up, lower the heat and cook for 1 minute.
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   Take the pan off the heat and pour the contents into a clean bowl.
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   Let cool to body temperature, then whisk in the butter until incorporated.
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    Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface of the cream.
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    Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before using.
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    You should have about 2 cups (500 ml).
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    To make the pastry dough, in a saucepan, combine the water, butter, and the salt, cover, and bring to a boil over medium heat.
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    As soon as the butter has melted and the water is boiling, add the flour in one shot.
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    Remove from the heat and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon until well combinedthat is, no clumps.
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    Return to the heat and continue to mix for 3 to 4 minutes only, or until the mixture is dry.
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    Transfer the mixture to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
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    On medium speed, mix for about 3 minutes, or until the mixture is at room temperature.
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    Then, one at a time, crack the eggs into a little bowl (so you wont drop the shells in the mixer bowl) and add them to the mix.
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    When you have added the seventh egg, check the consistency of the dough.
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    It is ready if when you flip it with a wooden spoon, it drops neatly.
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    If it is too stiff, add the remaining egg.
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    You can refrigerate the dough at this point, but it will be very hard to pipe or manipulate, so it is best to use it right away.
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    Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a round, plain tip (an Ateco no.
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    806, about 1/2 inch/12 mm in diameter, is ideal).
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    Line a large rimmed baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
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    Pipe 8 pastries onto the prepared baking sheet, forming a line about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 3/4 inch (2 cm) wide.
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    Let the pastries rest for 20 minutes at room temperature.
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    Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425F (220C).
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    Brush the pastries with the egg wash, then slip them into the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until you no longer see any white in the cracks.
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    Lower the oven temperature to 325F (165F) and continue to bake for another 10 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
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    Remove from the oven and immediately poke each pastry with a bamboo skewer to let the steam out (this prevents sogginess).
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    Let cool on the pan on a rack.
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    Add fillings and toppings from the variations that follow.
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    Using a serrated knife, cut the top off each eclair lengthwise, about two-thirds from the bottom (so the top is half the thickness of the bottom).
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    You may also fill the eclairs without cutting off the tops.
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    Poke two holes the size of a pen at each end of the bottom of the pastry, and fill using a pastry bag fitted with a small tip.
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    To make most of our eclair toppings, we use commercial fondant, which is nothing more than corn syrup and sugar.
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    It is relatively easy to obtain.
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    You can probably get your local pastry shop to front you a little, or you can find it in some groceries.
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    Filling: Weve tried to make our own pistachio paste, succeeding only in making a mortar with a very small amount of shamrock-green pistachio and 1 or 2 apricot kernels.
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    It is easiest to use store-bought pistachio paste, of course, if you can find it.
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    Add 3 tablespoons pistachio paste to the boiling milk when making the pastry cream, whisking well.
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    The rest of the recipe process is identical.
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    Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon green tea powder (matcha) into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed.
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    Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each eclair.
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    Sprinkle chopped pistachios on top.
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    Filling: Add 1/4 cup (80 g) Nutella to the boiling milk when making the pastry cream, whisking well.
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    The rest of the recipe is identical.
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    Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon Nutella into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed.
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    Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each eclair.
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    Sprinkle toasted halved hazelnuts on top.
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    Filling: Sift 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder with the dry ingredients for the pastry cream.
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    The rest of the recipe is identical.
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    Topping: Vigorously whisk 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder into 1 cup (350 g) fondant until evenly distributed.
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    Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto each eclair.
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    Crushed chocolate Poky sticks are delicious on top, as great Japanese pastry chefs have shown us.
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    Filling: Omit the sugar from the pastry cream recipe, and subtract 5 tablespoons (75 ml) of the milk.
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    Mix the generous 6 tablespoons (100 ml) milk with the egg yolks as directed, then bring the remaining 1 1/3 cups (325 ml) milk to a boil.
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    Add 5 tablespoons (75 ml) Eagle brand sweetened condensed milk to the boiling milk.
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    The rest of the recipe is identical.
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    (Warning: Somehow the sugar helps the flour and cornstarch to disperse, preventing clumping.
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    Because you dont have sugar, you will need to go heavy on the whisking to avoid as many clumps as possible.)
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    Topping: To make your own caramel, in a small, thick-bottomed saucepan, combine 1/2 cup (125 ml) water and 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar, place over high heat, and bring to a slow boil.
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    Let simmer undisturbed for 10 to 15 minutes.
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    Its important that you dont toss the mixture with a spoon or swirl the pan, or the caramel will crystallize.
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    The mixture can go from a nice caramel to burnt quickly, so watch closely.
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    Also, have your pastries filled and ready to be topped.
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    When the mixture is a nice blond, take it off the heat.
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    Using a sharp knife, remove a flat side from an ear of corn (a few rows of kernels wide and about 6 inches/15 cm long), working as carefully as you can.
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    Place the strip of corn kernels on top of a filled eclair.
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    Drizzle 1 to 2 tablespoons hot caramel over the corn.
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    Be careful not to touch it before it sets or youll leave a mark.
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    Remember, too, hot caramel will burn the hell out of your fingers.
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    And when it cools, its like glass and cuts like it, too.
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    If you like, add a pinch of cayenne pepperso little you can barely see it.
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    It adds a nice warmth.
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    Filling: Start with a cold bowl, 2 cups (500 ml) cold whipping cream (35 percent butterfat), and a cold whisk, a whip attachment for a stand mixer, or cold beaters and a handheld mixer.
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    Pour the cold cream into the cold bowl and start beating.
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    When the cream starts fluffing, add 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and continue beating.
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    When the peaks are soft, add another 1/4 cup (50 g) sugar and continue to beat until the cream looks and tastes like whipped cream.
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    Topping: The sauce is served hot and poured at the table.
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    Finely chop 12 ounces (340 g) dark chocolate (above 65 percent cacao) and place in a bowl.
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    In a saucepan, bring 2 cups (500 ml) half-and-half (15 percent butterfat) to a boil and pour over the chocolate.
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    Let sit for 2 minutes, then whisk until the chocolate is melted and the sauce is smooth.
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    Serve immediately or keep warm until serving.