Harlequin Soup

Directions

1. 1
   Ladle some of each soup into its own pitcher.
2. 2
   Pour both soups simultaneously into each of 6 bowls, creating a swirled almost yin-yang like appearance.
3. 3
   Garnish with chives and serve hot.
4. 4
   Cut the broccoli florets from the stems.
5. 5
   Peel the tough outer skin from the stems and trim off the fibrous ends.
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   Cut the stems lengthwise into slices about 1/2-inch thick and then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces.
7. 7
   Heat the olive oil and butter in a soup pot over medium-high heat until hot.
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   Add the garlic and cook until light brown.
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   Add the onion and celery, lower the heat to medium, and season with salt and pepper.
10. 10
    Cook the vegetables slowly until tender, about 10 minutes.
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    Regulate the heat so the vegetables cook without taking on color.
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    Add the thyme and stir.
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    Add the broccoli stems, stock, and salt and pepper, to taste, and bring to a boil.
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    Cook, uncovered, for about 3 minutes.
15. 15
    Add the florets and continue to cook until very tender, about 5 minutes more.
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    Puree the soup in a blender in small batches.
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    Add some of the spinach and some of the lemon zest to each batch and then puree it.
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    (The soup can be made to this point, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day or frozen for up to 1 month.)
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    Return the soup to the pan and reheat over gentle heat.
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    Stir in the cream.
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    Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
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    Keep warm.
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    Chef's Note: When I plan on finishing a dish with the addition of a dairy product, as I do here with cream, I often add a dairy product early in the cooking, too, as I do with the butter in the initial cooking of the vegetables.
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    It melds the flavors.
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    Yield: 4 to 6 servings
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    2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
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    1/2 cup (1/4-inch) diced onion
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    1/4 cup (1/4-inch) diced celery
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    1/4 cup (1/4-inch) diced carrot
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    1 cinnamon stick
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    Sea salt, preferably gray salt and freshly ground black pepper
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    About 4 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth
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    1/2 teaspoon ground toasted coriander, optional
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    1 1/2 cups Roasted Winter Squash recipe
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    1/2 cup half-and-half, optional
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    1/4 cup mascarpone cheese, optional
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    2 tablespoons toasted pumpkin seeds, optional
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    Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until hot.
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    Add the onion, celery, carrot, and cinnamon stick and saute until soft but not brown, about 10 minutes.
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    Season with salt and pepper.
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    Add the chicken stock and the coriander, if using, and bring to a boil.
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    Simmer for several minutes.
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    Stir in the squash until smooth, then simmer gently to let the flavors meld, about 10 minutes.
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    Discard the cinnamon stick.
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    Puree the soup in a blender until smooth.
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    (The soup can be made ahead to this point, cooled, covered, and refrigerated for several days or frozen for about 1 month.
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    It will thicken as it cools and may need thinning with stock or water when reheating.)
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    Return the soup to the pan and reheat gently.
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    Add the half-and-half, if using.
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    Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.
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    Keep warm until service.
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    Ladle the soup into serving bowls.
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    Garnish evenly, with the cheese and pumpkin seeds, if desired.
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    About 3 pounds butternut squash (preferably 1 large squash)
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    Gray salt and freshly ground black pepper
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    1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
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    2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage leaves
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    2 tablespoons granulated sugar
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    1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
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    1/4 cup dark unsulfured molasses
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    2 teaspoons Toasted Spice Rub, recipe follows
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    Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Peel the squash with a vegetable peeler.
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    Halve lengthwise, discard the seeds, then cut into 1-inch dice.
64. 64
    Place in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper.
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    Heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat.
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    When the butter ceases to foam and has turned a light brown, pull the pan off the heat and immediately add the sage, sugar, vinegar (stand back so as not to get splattered), molasses and toasted spice rub.
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    Mix well and let simmer over medium-low heat for 1 to 2 minutes to meld the flavors.
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    Pour the vinegar mixture over the squash and toss well, then transfer to a heavy rimmed baking sheet or baking dish large enough to hold the squash in a single layer.
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    Place in the oven and roast, tossing at least once, until very tender and caramelized, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
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    Set aside until cool enough to handle but still warm, so the liquids are runny.
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    Working in batches, if necessary, transfer the warm squash and all the cooking liquids to a food processor and process until smooth.
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    Use immediately, refrigerate for up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.
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    Serving suggestions: Serve the puree on its own as a side dish for roast chicken, turkey, or pork; stir into polenta just before the end of cooking; use as a stuffing for ravioli; make into a soup; or use to flavor pastina.
74. 74
    Or omit the sage, season with ground cinnamon and freshly grated nutmeg to taste, and use as a substitute for canned pumpkin in your favorite pumpkin pie recipe.
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    Variation for Smoky Butternut Squash: Cook the prepared squash on a baking sheet in a covered grill with soaked chips to give a slightly smoky taste.
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    Substitute in any of the recipes that call for roasted squash.
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    If cooking kabocha, acorn, or other difficult-to-peel squash, cut in half, scoop out the seeds, and rub the insides and cut edges with the vinegar/molasses mixture.
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    Place on a baking sheet, cut sides up, and roast at 400 degrees F until tender.
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    Scoop out and puree.
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    Yield: about 2 cups puree
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    1/4 cup fennel seeds
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    1 tablespoon coriander seeds
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    1 tablespoon peppercorns
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    1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
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    1/4 cup (1-ounce) pure California chili powder
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    2 tablespoons kosher salt
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    2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
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    Toast the fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns in a small, heavy pan over medium heat.
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    When the fennel turns light brown, work quickly.
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    Turn on the exhaust fan, add the red pepper flakes, and toss, toss, toss, always under the fan.
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    Immediately turn the spice mixture out onto a plate to cool.
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    Put mixture into a blender with the chili powder, salt, and cinnamon and blend until the spices are evenly ground.
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    If you have a small spice mill or a coffee grinder dedicated to grinding spices, grind only the fennel, coriander, pepper, and chili flakes.
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    Pour into a bowl and toss with the remaining ingredients.
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    Keep the spice mix in a glass jar in a cool, dry place, or freeze.
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    Chef's notes: Toasting freshens spices, releases their oils, and makes them more fragrant, as well as adding a new dimension of flavor.
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    Taste your chili powder before adding and, if spicy and hot, cut back the amount.
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    California chilies are almost sweet, not hot.
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    Yield: about 1 cup