Moon Cakes

Directions

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   In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, citric acid, and water and let stand for 30 minutes.
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   Then bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the syrup turns pale yellow (the color of canola oil).
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   If the citric acid turns dark yellow during boiling, swirl the pan or stir the contents to distribute.
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   Remove from the heat and pour into a large measuring cup or heatproof bowl.
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   Set the syrup aside for about 4 hours to cool completely.
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   It will thicken and darken a bit as it cools.
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   Then cover with plastic wrap and keep at room temperature.
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   There should be a scant 1 cup syrup.
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   (The syrup can be made up to 3 days in advance and kept at room temperature until using.)
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    Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 250F.
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    Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
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    Crack each salted egg and separate the yolk from the white, discarding the white and depositing the yolk on the prepared baking sheet.
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    Discard yolks that are liquid, but keep yolks that hold their shape, even if they are partial ones; you can make a double-yolk cake.
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    Once you have enough yolks (either 10 or 12, whole and partial ones combined), stop; the number of yolks needed depends on the size of your mold.
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    Save any left over salted eggs for another use.
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    Bake the egg yolks for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they have lost most of their sheen.
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    You want the yolks to cook sufficiently to hold their shape in the cakes.
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    If the surfaces crack, they have baked a little too long but will be okay in the cakes.
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    Remove the yolks from the oven and let cool.
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    When cool enough to handle, use your fingers or a paring knife to pry the yolks from the baking sheet.
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    Trim each yolk so that it is as round as possible and place on a plate or in a plastic container.
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    Cover and set aside.
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    Put the pork fatback, Char Siu Pork, and sausage in a bowl and use a fork to combine well.
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    Add the powdered sugar and toss to coat the pork and sausage thoroughly.
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    Set aside for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour to marinate.
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    The meat will look wet as it absorbs the sugar.
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    Put the marinated meats and the sunflower seeds, walnuts, cashews, almonds, sesame seeds, crystallized ginger, candied citron, chicken, sugar, and corn syrup into a 12-inch nonstick skillet.
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    Place over medium heat and saute gently for about 10 minutes, or until the pieces of fatback are clear and the sugar has melted.
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    (If you taste some, you should detect just a bit of graininess from the sugar.)
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    Turn off the heat and wait for the bubbling sugar to subside before stirring in the liquor and lime zest.
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    Let cool for 30 minutes before continuing.
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    To shape the filling into balls, line the baking sheet with fresh parchment paper and gather the following: the filling, plastic wrap, the baked yolks, and a scale.
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    Tear off 4 pieces of plastic wrap each about 20 inches long, and fold each piece in half.
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    Put a folded sheet on the scale.
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    Scoop up 1/3 cup of the filling and deposit it on the plastic wrap.
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    Make a depression in the middle, and put an egg yolk in the depression.
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    Top with 1 to 2 tablespoons of the filling to achieve the total weight you want: 3 ounces for a 1/2-cup mold, or 3 1/2 ounces for a 2/3-cup mold.
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    Gather up the edges of the plastic wrap and pick up the bundle in one hand.
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    With the other hand, twist and squeeze the plastic to compress the filling into a ball the size of a tangerine (about 2 1/4 inches in diameter).
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    Use some pressure to make sure the elements have stuck together.
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    Undo the plastic and roll the filling onto the prepared baking sheet.
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    Th e ball should hold together as it sits.
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    If it falls apart, squeeze it back into shape.
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    Repeat with the remaining filling, using new pieces of plastic wrap as the old ones get too tacky to release the balls easily once they are shaped.
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    (If lots of clear, thickish liquid remains toward the end, dont try to use it all, or the filling will be too wet.)
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    Set the balls of filling aside.
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    Add the 1/4 cup oil, 3 tablespoons caramel sauce, and potassium bicarbonate solution to the sugar syrup.
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    Use a rubber spatula to stir for about 1 minute, or until the mixture has increased in volume, is opaque, and is a rich caramel color.
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    If necessary, add caramel sauce, 1/4 teaspoon at a time, to darken.
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    Put the 2 3/4 cups flour into a large bowl and make a well in the center.
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    Pour the sugar syrup mixture into the well and use the spatula to stir until you have a soft dough with the texture of marzipan.
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    Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead in about 2 tablespoons flour to create a smooth, very malleable, slightly tacky dough.
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    It may spread a bit when left to sit.
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    Shape the dough into a log 2 inches in diameter.
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    For 1/2-cup molds, cut the log at scant 1-inch intervals to yield 2-ounce pieces; for 2/3-cup molds, cut at 1-inch intervals to yield 2 1/2-ounce pieces.
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    Weigh each piece for accuracy, pinching off or adding on dough as necessary.
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    Save extra dough for emergency patching up.
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    Cover the dough pieces loosely with plastic wrap and set aside.
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    (The dough may be prepared 1 hour in advance of shaping the cakes.)
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    Set up a station that allows you to whack the wooden mold firmly against a hard surface.
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    Kitchen counters are not good.
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    I typically put a piece of plywood and a section of a two-by-four on a dining room chair.
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    Both pieces of wood should roughly span the width of the chair.
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    The plywood does not have to match the depth of the chair.
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    Position the wood pieces at the edge of the chair.
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    The thin, wide plywood acts as a stabilizer, while the thicker two-by-four takes the pressure.
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    (If you want to protect the floor, fold a towel or blanket to create a double or triple thickness and put it under the chairs feet.)
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    When you are satisfied with the setup, take the mold by the handle and practice the whacking sequence outlined in step 17.
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    Strike with confidence and strength to get a loud whack.
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    If your arrangement seems sufficiently sturdy, continue to the next step.
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    Set up a station for shaping the moon cakes near the whacking station, outfitting it with the following: a large work surface (such as a cutting board), flour for dusting, a small bowl of oil, a pastry brush, a rolling pin (preferably an Asian-style pin, which is essentially a 1-inch wood dowel), the dough pieces, the balls of filling, and the mold(s).
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    Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper, oil the paper, and place them with the other tools.
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    To shape each moon cake, first oil and flour the mold.
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    Use a pastry brush dipped in oil to coat the carved surfaces lightly.
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    Sprinkle in some flour and tap the mold against your hand to spread the flour evenly over the entire interior surface.
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    Invert and tap the mold against the sink to remove excess flour.
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    Set the prepared mold by your work area.
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    Lightly flour the work surface and place a piece of dough on top of it.
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    With a lightly floured hand, smack the dough to flatten it to a 1/4-inch-thick disk.
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    Flip it over.
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    Quickly dip 2 fingers into the oil and very lightly oil the rolling pin; this tiny bit of oil makes the dough easier to manipulate.
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    With short, fast strokes, roll the dough away from its center, leaving a plump, roughly 1-inch-wide belly in the middle.
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    With each roll, pick up the dough and give it a quarter turn to prevent sticking.
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    When it is about 4 inches in diameter, stop turning the dough and make the final passes to create a circle 5 to 5 1/2 inches in diameter and a generous 1/8 inch thick at the edge.
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    This Chinese method of rolling dough ensures an even thickness all around the cake.
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    (If the dough sticks or breaks, scrape it up with a plastic dough scraper or knife, knead it back into a ball, and start over.
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    It is a forgiving dough.)
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    Pick up the dough circle and put it in one hand.
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    Place a ball of filling in the center of the circle, and then invert the entire thing into the other hand; the dough will naturally droop over the filling.
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    (The dough side that now faces you will be the pretty top of the cake.)
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    Pass the ball back to the other hand so that the bottom of the cake now faces upward.
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    Cupping the cake in one hand, use the fingers of your other hand to seal the dough, completely encasing the filling.
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    Gently press, nudge, and mold the dough as needed.
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    Once sealed, cup the ball in both hands and gently roll and pat it smooth.
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    The pastry will take on a slight sheen.
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    Place the ball, top side down, into the mold.
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    Using the fleshy part of your hand between the base of your thumb and wrist, press the ball into the mold.
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    Try to apply even pressure.
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    Once the cake has filled the mold, go around the edge to press the pastry inward gently and away from the side walls of the mold.
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     Th is helps the cake to release.
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     To loosen the cake from the mold, step over to your whacking station.
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     Take the handle of the mold and firmly whack it against the wood in this precise order: The first 4 whacks are applied to each side of the mold (left , top, right, and bottom).
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     For the dramatic fifth and final whack, turn the mold so that the cake faces down and place your hand underneath to catch the cake as it falls out.
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     Place the cake on the baking sheet.
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     Repeat with the remaining dough and filling, spacing the cakes about 2 inches apart on the baking sheets.
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     As you work, take note of the following: If the cake threatens to jump out of the mold while you are whacking, immediately reduce the amount of pressure and continue through the entire sequence.
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     If you have to set the ball of filling and dough down at any time, place it on a floured surface to prevent sticking.
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     Because the carved impressions dull as oil and flour accumulate in the mold, occasionally pause between shaping the cakes to clean out the mold.
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     (Use 2 molds and you will clean less often.)
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     For cleaning, use a toothpick, skewer, or the tip of a paring knife to dislodge bits.
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     A hard spray of water from the sink faucet also helps.
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     After spraying, dry the mold with paper towels before oiling and flouring it for the next cake.
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     Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 250F.
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     Meanwhile, make the glaze by combining the egg yolks and caramel sauce in a small bowl and mixing with a fork until well blended.
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     Pass the glaze through a fine-mesh sieve into another small bowl.
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     Discard the solids and set the bowl aside.
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     Fill the spray bottle halfway with water and set aside.
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     Use a toothpick to poke 3 or 4 air vents into the top of each cake, about 1/4 inch deep.
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     (This helps the cakes bake more evenly.)
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     Flat toothpicks make less conspicuous holes than round ones.
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     Baking moon cakes is a three-step process, and you must bake only 1 sheet at a time.
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     Loosely cover the unbaked cakes on 1 sheet with parchment paper.
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     Slip the other sheet into the oven and bake for 22 to 25 minutes, or until the cakes look dull and a little puffed.
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     Remove from the oven, and immediately spray the cakes with water to soften the dough.
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     Wait for about 2 minutes, or until the water is absorbed, and then use your fingers to push and straighten up the cakes.
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     (They are not that hot.)
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     This cosmetic surgery helps to produce prettier cakes.
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     Ideally, the sides should be straight, not flared.
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     The cakes should retain most of their out-of-the-mold appearance but be slightly puffed.
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     Once you are satisfied with how the cakes look, brush the tops with the glaze and return the cakes to the oven.
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     Bake this second time for 10 minutes.
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     Remove the cakes from the oven, brush again with the glaze, and return to the oven.
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     Bake for a final 10 minutes, or until the tops are richly colored and shiny.
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     Remove from the oven and put on a rack to cool.
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     When the cakes are cool enough to handle, after about 30 minutes, you may straighten any lopsided, unsightly cakes.
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     While the first baking sheet cools, bake the second sheet.
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     As the moon cakes cool, they darken from the caramel sauce in the dough and glaze.
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     When they are completely cool, store them in an airtight plastic container.
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     Before eating them, allow them to age for 1 to 2 days to soften the pastry and develop the flavors.
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     They will keep at room temperature for up to 5 days and in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
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     Enjoy them at room temperature, cut into small wedges.
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     To freeze, wrap each cake in plastic wrap and place the cakes on a baking sheet.
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     Put the baking sheet in the freezer for several hours, or until the cakes are hard.
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     Transfer the cakes to zip-top plastic bags and freeze for up to 6 months.
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     To thaw, remove the plastic wrap from the still-frozen cakes, put the cakes in an airtight plastic container, and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 days before cutting and eating.
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     Wooden moon cake molds are typically sold at Chinese and Vietnamese cookware stores, especially as the holiday nears.
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     Or, check the Resources section (page 335) for an online vendor.
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     Look for molds with holes pierced on the sides; they provide handy drainage and air vents.
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     Moon cake molds hold either 1/2 cup or 2/3 cup and are sometimes marked 150 or 200 grams, respectively.
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     If you are unsure, fill the mold with water to determine the size.
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     For your first time making moon cakes, use the larger mold (about 2 3/4 inches in diameter and 1 1/4 inches deep), which is easier to work with.
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     Molds from Vietnam are for making either baked moon cakes (this recipe) or for chewy unbaked cakes called banh deo (also eaten on this holiday).
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     In general, molds for the former are carved with small, delicate scalloped edges, while molds for the latter have much bigger, robust edges.
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     Although I have made this recipe with both kinds of molds, the cakes are prettiest when made with the proper mold.
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     Here are some tips for locating ingredients:
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     Citric acid, sold in crystallized form as sour salt (also called citric salt), is usually stocked in the kosher-food section of mainstream supermarkets.
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     Potassium bicarbonate solution (lye water) is sold at Chinese markets in glass bottles shelved near the vinegars.
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     Sorghum and rose petal liquor (mei kwei lu chiu) is available at Chinese markets, too.
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     Look for the Chinese name on the bottles or boxes.
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     It is also great for sipping.
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     Health-food stores with a bulk section are great places to buy small quantities of nuts.
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     Candied citron and fruitcake mix are seasonal ingredients that may be stored for several years.
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     Buy a small supply in November, when they are sold for holiday baking.
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     See page 169 for tips on finding pork fatback.