Salt-and-Pepper Beef Ribs

Directions

1. 1
   On one-half of a grill fitted with a cover, build a small charcoal fire, about the size of a loaf of commercial sandwich bread, making sure all the charcoal becomes engulfed in flame.
2. 2
   Place the ribs meat-side down on a baking sheet or cutting board and remove the papery membrane from the back of the rack by inserting a small knife beneath it and levering it up to give you enough to gain purchase with a dish towel.
3. 3
   Peel off the membrane and discard.
4. 4
   Mix the salt, pepper, brown sugar, paprika and, if you choose, red-pepper flakes in a bowl, breaking up the brown sugar with a fork.
5. 5
   Using your hands, cover the meat entirely in this rub.
6. 6
   When the flames begin to die down, leaving flickering coals, place the rib racks meat-side up on the half of the grill without the burning charcoal.
7. 7
   Do not let the flames touch the meat at any time.
8. 8
   Add a handful of the hickory chips to the fire.
9. 9
   Cover the grill, vent slightly and cook, adding a handful of hickory chips every 30 minutes and a bit more fuel as necessary, until the meat is crusty, soft to the touch and well browned, about two and a half hours.
10. 10
    Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
11. 11
    Set the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for around 5 hours.
12. 12
    Cut into individual portions.
13. 13
    Serve with extra napkins and, if you choose, barbecue sauce.