Dumplings with Speck

Directions

1. 1
   Cut the sliced speck (or bacon or prosciutto) into strips about 1/3 inch wide; chop the strips crosswise to form little square bits of meat.
2. 2
   Pour the olive oil into the smaller skillet, and set it over medium heat.
3. 3
   Stir in the onion, and cook until it starts sizzling.
4. 4
   Spoon a tablespoon or two of water into the pan (so the onions soften without coloring), and cook for 3 or 4 minutes more.
5. 5
   Scatter in the chopped speck and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, until it has rendered its fat.
6. 6
   Scrape the onion and speck into a large bowl and let cool.
7. 7
   Put the bread cubes in another bowl, and pour in the milk.
8. 8
   Toss the cubes so theyre all drenched, then let them soak up the milk for about 10 minutes, until completely saturated.
9. 9
   By handfuls, squeeze the bread, discarding the excess milk (or saving it for your cat!
10. 10
    ).
11. 11
    Loosen the compressed bread, tearing it into shreds, and toss them into the bowl with the speck.
12. 12
    Add the grated cheese, chives, parsley, and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and toss everything together.
13. 13
    Pour the beaten eggs over the bread mixture, and stir to blend.
14. 14
    Finally, sprinkle on 1/2 cup flour and stir it in to form a moist, sticky dough.
15. 15
    Pick up a bit and form it into a ball: if it is too soft to keep a shape, stir in more flour, a tablespoon at a time.
16. 16
    Fill the wide pot with about 6 quarts water, and add 1 tablespoon salt; heat it to a boil.
17. 17
    Melt the butter in the big skillet over very low heat; turn off the flame, but leave the skillet on the burner.
18. 18
    Spread 1/2 cup flour on the tray or baking sheet.
19. 19
    With floured hands, scoop up a small portion of dough (a scant 1/4 cup or so).
20. 20
    Shape the dough into a 2-inch ball, tossing it from hand to hand and patting it lightly into a rounddont press or squeeze it too much.
21. 21
    Lay it in the flour, and roll the ball to coat it all over.
22. 22
    Set it on one side of the tray, and form round dumplings from the rest of the dough the same way.
23. 23
    With the poaching water at a steady boil, drop in the dumplings, one at a time but quickly.
24. 24
    Handle them gently and dont stir them.
25. 25
    Bring the water back to a boil, then adjust it so it simmers steadily.
26. 26
    Dont let it boil vigorously, which can break apart the canederli.
27. 27
    Let the dumplings cook, without stirring, until all have risen to the surface of the water.
28. 28
    Simmer them for a couple of minutes, then scoop one out and cut into it to check that the center is not wet and the dough looks uniformly cooked through.
29. 29
    Meanwhile, have the big skillet with melted butter warming over very low heat.
30. 30
    Lift the cooked dumplings with a spider, let drain over the pot for a few seconds, then gently drop them in the butter.
31. 31
    Spoon butter over the canederli and serve them right awayon individual plates or a platter, family styletopped with grated cheese.
32. 32
    If you are serving them as an accompaniment to braised or roasted meat, drizzle the pan juices over the canederli.
33. 33
    You can also arrange the buttered canederli around the meat on a platter, letting them slowly absorb the juices or sauce.