La Genovese

Directions

1. 1
   With a mezzaluna or a very sharp knife, mince the salt pork, salame, and prosciutto to a fine paste.
2. 2
   In a terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserolejust large enough to hold the beef and its accessorieswarm the olive oil over a medium flame and soften the paste in it.
3. 3
   Pat the beef dry with absorbent paper towels and brown it in the fragrant fat, crusting it well on all sidesa process that takes at least 10 minutes.
4. 4
   Remove the now deeply crusted beef to a holding plate.
5. 5
   Add the onions, carrots, and celery to the pot, rolling them about in the fat, softening them without coloring them.
6. 6
   Add the tomato puree, the sea salt, and the wine, stirring, scraping at the residue in the pan and letting the sauce simmer gently for 1 minute before returning the beef to the pot.
7. 7
   Cover the casserole tightly and, over a low flame, braise the beef, its liquids barely simmering, for 2 1/2 hours.
8. 8
   When the beef is fork-tender, it is properly cooked.
9. 9
   Should it require longer braising, add a few tablespoonfuls more of wine, replace the lid, and let the whole continue to cook for 20 to 30 minutes more.
10. 10
    Permit the dish a 1/2 hours repose.
11. 11
    I would never think to strain the sauce of all the lush debris remaining from the aromatics, the salame, and the prosciutto.
12. 12
    I suppose, though, a classic Swiss cook might think to improve it by straining it.
13. 13
    Id hope for his sake that he might spread the resultant paste on a heft of warm toast and eat it for his own private lunch.
14. 14
    Should you wish to precede its presentation with pasta, see the instructions on page 71.