Skillet Cauliflower

Directions

1. 1
   Tear or cut off all the outer leaves attached to the base of the cauliflower, then cut out the bottom core.
2. 2
   Separate the head into big florets, snapping them apart or slicing them from the inner stem.
3. 3
   Now cut the big florets into 1-inch chunks or thick slices (dont break up the clusters of tiny florets) so you have 6 cups or more of roughly equal-sized cauliflower pieces.
4. 4
   Put the olive oil in a large skillet or saute pan (one that has a cover) and set over medium-low heat.
5. 5
   Scatter the garlic slices and peperoncino in the oil, and pile in all the cauliflower.
6. 6
   Sprinkle the salt all over the florets, give the pan a few good shakes, and cover.
7. 7
   Let the cauliflower sweat, giving the pan an occasional shake, for about 4 minutes.
8. 8
   Then remove the cover and toss everything together well, by jerking the pan (like chefs do) or just turning the vegetables with a spoon.
9. 9
   Cover, cook another 3 minutes, then toss well again.
10. 10
    By this time, the edges of some of the cauliflower pieces should have started to brown.
11. 11
    If not, turn the heat up just a bit.
12. 12
    Cover the pan again, and let the cauliflower continue to caramelize slowly, tossing the pieces every few minutes, until they are tender, fragrant, and beautifully browned12 to 15 minutes in the pan in all.
13. 13
    To serve, spread a cup or more of tomato elixir to cover the bottom of a serving platter.
14. 14
    Pile the warm cauliflower in the middle of the red poolmake sure all the colors are showingand spoon out serving portions, scooping up sauce and vegetables together.
15. 15
    Have a couple of mixing bowls handy, and place a sturdy wire sieve (with small but not tiny holes) in one of them.
16. 16
    Rinse the tomatoes if necessary; cut out the cores and any other hard parts.
17. 17
    Following the instructions for preparing tomatoes on page 261, peel the tomatoes, slice them in half, and squeeze out the seeds.
18. 18
    You should collect all the skins and seeds in the sieve, all the juices in the bowl underneath it, and all the crushed tomato pulp in the second bowl.
19. 19
    After you have pressed the seeds and skins to extract their juice, dump out the residue and rinse the sieve.
20. 20
    Now put the crushed pulp in the sieve and push and scrape it all vigorously, forming a puree that drops into the juice.
21. 21
    (Heres a quicker procedure, if you prefer: Core and trim the tomatoes but dont peel them.
22. 22
    Cut them into quarters, or smaller pieces, and drop into the sieve.
23. 23
    Press and rub the tomatoesskins, seeds, and alluntil the scrapings are as dry as you can get them.
24. 24
    Its faster, but you wont get quite as much puree this way.)
25. 25
    With a wire whisk, blend the pureed pulp and juice, adding the 1/4 teaspoon salt.
26. 26
    Now drizzle in your best olive oil, a tablespoon at a time, whisking steadily, as the oil emulsifies.
27. 27
    Taste and add more salt if you like.
28. 28
    Smash the peeled garlic cloves under the big blade of a chefs knife; drop them into the emulsion.
29. 29
    Crumple up each basil leaf in your fingers to release the oils and drop them in as well.
30. 30
    If you like a bit of heat, add a pinch of peperoncino.
31. 31
    Cover the bowl, give the garlic and basil 2 to 3 hours to infuse the tomato, at room temperature, then scoop out the cloves and leaves and discard.
32. 32
    Whisk up the elixir, add salt or drops of lemon juice to taste, and enjoy.
33. 33
    Serve at room temperature as a vegetable sauce, then keep it in the refrigerator.
34. 34
    Braised endive
35. 35
    Pan-sauteed peppers and/or eggplant
36. 36
    Sauteed or boiled zucchini