Passatelli

Directions

1. 1
   Bring the stock to a steady simmer in a large saucepan.
2. 2
   Meanwhile, combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, nutmeg, and parsley on a work surface and make a well in the center.
3. 3
   Break the eggs into the well and knead the mixture until it forms a soft, granular dough.
4. 4
   Place the dough into a ricer or food mill with large holes.
5. 5
   (If you do not have a ricer or food mill, place the dough in a colander and press the dough through with a wooden spoon.)
6. 6
   Press the dough into the simmering stock and cook until tender but firm, just about 2 minutes.
7. 7
   Serve immediately, passing more Parmesan at the table.
8. 8
   Known as tarhana in the Middle East: Instead of making passatelli, use about 1/4 pound of fresh egg pasta (page 541), formed into a ball.
9. 9
   Using the big holes on a box grater, grate the pasta directly into the simmering broth (or onto wax paper, where you can store it for a few hours; just make sure the shreds remain separate).
10. 10
    Cook in the stock until the pasta is tender but firm, 3 or 4 minutes.
11. 11
    Season the stock with the nutmeg and serve, passing Parmesan at the table.
12. 12
    To make matzo balls, which are not all that different in spirit, beat 3 eggs with 1/2 cup stock.
13. 13
    Add 1/4 cup minced onion, 1/4 cup rendered chicken fat or oil, salt and black pepper to taste, and enough matzo meal to make a moist, barely stiff doughabout a cup.
14. 14
    Shape into balls and cover; refrigerate, preferably overnight, but for at least an hour.
15. 15
    Cook the matzo balls in abundant boiling salted water until expanded and set, about 30 minutes, then add them to the soup.