Smorgasbord

Directions

1. 1
   Combine the cream and buttermilk in a measuring pitcher and stir until you get a thick yogurt consistency.
2. 2
   Transfer to a jar, cover with cheesecloth or muslin, and secure with a rubber band.
3. 3
   Leave at room temperature for 12 hours.
4. 4
   The creme fraiche is now ready to use.
5. 5
   If you want to drain off some liquid so it is thicker, spoon it into a sieve lined with a coffee filter placed over a bowl, and put the setup in the fridge for a few hours.
6. 6
   Add the pepper to the cream just before serving.
7. 7
   Thinly slice the cucumbers and place in a colander.
8. 8
   Lightly rub the salt into the slices while tossing them.
9. 9
   Place the colander over a bowl and let drain for about 15 minutes.
10. 10
    Place the cucumber slices in a bowl and set aside.
11. 11
    In a small saucepan, bring the vinegar, water, pepper to taste, sugar, and mustard seeds to a boil.
12. 12
    Remove from the heat, pour the mixture over the cucumber slices, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
13. 13
    Add more pepper to taste before serving.
14. 14
    In a bowl, work together the butter, dill, and mustard until smooth.
15. 15
    Season with salt and pepper to taste.
16. 16
    Scoop onto a sheet of plastic wrap and, using the wrap, shape into a cylinder the diameter of a silver dollar.
17. 17
    Wrap in the plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 3 hours, or until firm.
18. 18
    You may use the butter now, leave it in the fridge longer, or freeze it to use later.
19. 19
    (It is good on poached fish or poultry.)
20. 20
    In a thick-bottomed pot, combine the water, salt, soy sauce, and maple syrup and bring almost to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt.
21. 21
    Take it off the stove and chill it in the fridge.
22. 22
    Lay the fish in a plastic container with a tight-fitting lid, cover with the cold brine, and cover with the lid.
23. 23
    Refrigerate for 6 hours.
24. 24
    When you are ready to smoke, start your smoker.
25. 25
    It should be barely warm when you start, and it should take about 30 minutes to reach 85F (30C)inside the smoker that is.
26. 26
    It is now that the fish take on that distinctive crust that makes them look smoked.
27. 27
    After 1 1/2 hours, the smoker should be at 150F (65C).
28. 28
    At the 2-hour mark, it should reach 200F (95C).
29. 29
    At this point, the internal temperature of the fish should read (on a good-quality, well-calibrated electronic thermometer) about 140F (60C).
30. 30
    Make sure there is always a good cloud of smoke.
31. 31
    (I suggest taking readings at 20-minute intervals to make sure you dont overshoot that 140F mark.)
32. 32
    You can store the smoked fish in the fridge for up to a week, or you can freeze it for up to a month.
33. 33
    Preheat the broiler.
34. 34
    Cut the eel into 4 equal pieces, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and baste with some of the maple syrup.
35. 35
    Broil the eel for 1 to 2 minutes, or until it bubbles.
36. 36
    Remove, baste with the remaining maple syrup, and then broil again for a minute or two.
37. 37
    Remove from the broiler, season with salt and pepper (they should stick to the syrup), and serve warm.
38. 38
    Place the eggs in a pot in cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and boil for 3 minutes for quail eggs or 7 minutes for chicken eggs.
39. 39
    Chill in an ice bath, then peel and refrigerate.
40. 40
    To make the brine, in a saucepan, combine the water, vinegar, and sugar and bring to a boil.
41. 41
    Put your eggs in a Mason jar, and put the mustard seeds, tarragon, celery, and horseradish on top.
42. 42
    Pour in the boiling mix and seal the jar.
43. 43
    Store in the fridge.
44. 44
    The eggs are ready to eat after 1 week.
45. 45
    They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
46. 46
    Rinse the fish and pat dry.
47. 47
    With your sharpest knife, remove the brown flesh on the skinned side, not too much, just a little.
48. 48
    Cut the fish into 1/4-inch (6-mm) cubes, transferring the pieces to a cool bowl as you go.
49. 49
    Add about 1 teaspoon lemon juice, the chives, shallot, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and stir.
50. 50
    Taste and rectify if need be, then mix in the oil.
51. 51
    Serve within 15 minutes.
52. 52
    Shave horseradish to order.
53. 53
    Open the jar of onions, remove 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the liquid, and replace it with the aquavit.
54. 54
    (You can also use vodka in place of aquavit and then add 20 caraway seeds and 10 coriander seeds.)
55. 55
    Leave for 3 or 4 days (at least).
56. 56
    Open and serve.
57. 57
    If you have 1 fillet, cut it into 2 equal pieces.
58. 58
    If you have 2 fillets, they should be of equal size.
59. 59
    In a small bowl, mix together the sugars, salt, peppercorns, and gin to form a paste.
60. 60
    Divide the paste evenly among the 4 sides of the fish pieces.
61. 61
    Using half of the dill, cover the flesh side of both pieces, and then join the sides together.
62. 62
    Slip the sandwiched pieces into a lock-top plastic bag, press out the air, and seal closed.
63. 63
    Place the bag between 2 plates, place the setup in the fridge, and leave for 8 hours.
64. 64
    Remove the fish from the bag, rinse well under cool water, and pat dry.
65. 65
    Cover with the remaining dill, slip the fish into a new bag, and refrigerate again for at least 8 or up to 10 hours so the cure can even out.
66. 66
    Remove the fish from the bag, slice thinly, and serve.
67. 67
    Cut the salmon into 1-inch (2.5-cm) cubes and place in a bowl.
68. 68
    Add the salt, toss to mix, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
69. 69
    Rinse the salmon cubes under cool water to remove the salt, place in a clean bowl, add cold water to cover, and soak in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
70. 70
    In a large, widemouthed Mason jar or wire-bale canning jar, place a layer of fish, then a layer of onion slices.
71. 71
    Repeat.
72. 72
    In a covered saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and pickling spice and bring to a boil.
73. 73
    Remove from the heat and let infuse for 10 minutes.
74. 74
    Discard the bag of spices and pour the boiling mix over the fish and onion.
75. 75
    Seal the jar, let cool, and refrigerate.
76. 76
    Give the salmon and onion a day or two to pickle.
77. 77
    They will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.
78. 78
    Boil the potatoes as you would normally, drain them, and immediately pour the vinegar over them.
79. 79
    Let them cool off for 5 to 10 minutes.
80. 80
    Whip the cream gently just to thicken it.
81. 81
    Fold in the mustard, shallot, and tarragon.
82. 82
    Season with salt and pepper.
83. 83
    When the potatoes have cooled, toss them gently with the cream.
84. 84
    Add more salt and pepper to taste.
85. 85
    For each large oyster, make a cure of 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and canola oil and 1 teaspoon brown sugar.
86. 86
    Be sure to use huge West Coast oysters (Gigas).
87. 87
    We shuck them, brush on the cure, and then smoke them on their bottom shell in heavy smoke until they register a core temperature of 140F (60C).
88. 88
    The Smoked Mackerel brine is adequate for processing other fish as well, but the curing time may differ.
89. 89
    The dense, thick flesh of sturgeon, for example, may take up to 24 hours at the same temperature.
90. 90
    We soak scallops in the brine for 30 minutes, and then smoke them for about an hour, or until they register a core temperature of 140F (60C).